| One of my favorite memories of Boston was a weekend visit that, coincidently, happened to be St. Patrick’s Day. We couldn’t have planned a more festive day to visit. |
We had come to experience Boston’s historic sections, a few interesting attractions, and just soak in the hospitality of the luxurious Intercontinental Hotel. Somehow the fact that it had also been St. Patrick’s Day had escaped us.
Boston, however, did not forget.
We are used to Boston’s streets bustling with activity, so we didn’t think much about it when the usual attractions were busy.
We meandered towards the Old State House, one of Boston’s most iconic historical landmarks. The building, with its red brick facade and gilded accents, stood as a testament to the city’s rich colonial history. As we approached, the crowds thickened, each person eager to soak in the festive atmosphere and the historical significance of this site.
The Old State House was a hive of activity. Children ran around with green hats and shamrock-shaped balloons, while street performers entertained the masses with traditional Irish tunes and lively jigs. The air was filled with the sound of laughter and music, creating an infectious sense of joy that seemed to reverberate off the building’s walls. Even the usually solemn museum visitors couldn’t help but join in the festivities, their expressions a mix of fascination and delight.
Fine, we thought. Boston’s proud of its Irish heritage. We knew that. We also knew it was proud of all of its many immigrant contributions to the city’s culture, like the Italian restaurants in the North End.
Why is Everyone so Irish Today?
Inside the Old State House, the atmosphere was no less vibrant. History buffs and curious tourists alike explored the exhibits, their conversations blending with the background hum of the city’s celebrations.
The stories of the American Revolution seemed to come alive in this setting, with the echoes of the past mingling seamlessly with the present-day revelry. As we wandered through the rooms, we couldn’t help but feel a deep appreciation for Boston’s ability to celebrate its heritage in such a lively and inclusive manner.
On our way to Faneuil Hall, when we spotted a horse and carriage, decorated with Irish colors traversing the streets to the St. Patrick’s Day Parade, it finally dawned on us.
It’s St. Patrick’s Day. Duh!
OOOH! It’s St. Patrick’s Day!
The walk to South Boston was a bit longer than we had expected. It turns out that South Station wasn’t south enough.
The parade starts at 1PM at the Broadway MBTA station, wanders down West Broadway almost to City Point, comes back via Telegraph Hill, and finishes on Dorchester Avenue.
That means that even late comers like us can catch the MBTA to Columbus Park/Andrews Square and still have a chance to witness the end of the parade route. VIP observers are at the stands at Marine Park, but perhaps the best spot is where West Broadway crosses Dorchester, because you can see the parade pass, then scurry a couple of blocks and catch it coming the other way around Thomas Park.
So what’s at the parade? Irish flags. Irish bagpipers. Irish marching bands. Shriners. Imperial Stormtroopers.
Wait, what?
Yep, a parade anywhere in New England is sometimes an excuse for silliness, and Boston’s St. Patrick’s Day Parade is no exception.
From the rooftops to the sidewalks, every inch is filled with a mix of the expected and the extraordinary. Just when you think you’ve seen it all, in come the Imperial Stormtroopers, fully decked out in their galactic armor. They march in perfect unison, blasters at their sides, adding a touch of sci-fi flair to the celebration. It’s a scene that never fails to amuse the crowd, reminding us that even the most time-honored traditions can welcome a bit of playful fun.
Maybe fun is what is needed, considering the tragedy that created the Irish-American population of Boston in the first place.
The Irish diaspora, particularly during the mid-19th century, saw a wave of Irish immigrants flooding into the United States, with Boston serving as a vital entry point. The Great Famine ravaged Ireland from 1845 to 1852, forcing many Irish families to flee their homeland in search of better opportunities across the Atlantic.
Boston, just a hop, skip, and a jump from Ireland, with its already established Irish communities, became a natural destination. Neighborhoods like South Boston and Charlestown quickly transformed into lively Irish enclaves, where newcomers could find support, camaraderie, and a sense of belonging.
From laying down the infrastructure to ascending the ranks of political leadership, the Irish immigrants left an unforgettable mark on the city. Their contributions continue to shine brightly in Boston’s vibrant cultural mosaic.
Of course we enjoyed the marching bands and we pondered about the various civic groups that preserve and celebrate the Irish heritage.
The Revolutionary War reenactors are always fun to watch, since they pay such close attention to the details of their costumes. Chat with one and he’ll explain things like how his recreated uniform has specific buttons in specific patterns specific to one specific group of specific…. Well, you get the idea. They research and obsess over every detail, then wear sunglasses during the parade.
Yes, they belong in St. Patrick’s Day Parade. Not in the silly way that the Imperial Stormtroopers do, but in an official way. A historic specific way.
It turns out that during the Revolutionary War, when the British regulars abandoned Boston to the revolutionaries, they left on St. Patrick’s Day in 1776. So the parade doesn’t just celebrate Irish heritage, it also celebrates an important moment in Boston and American history – “Evacuation Day”.
We saw our carriage again, carrying some kind of local notable, though we couldn’t figure out who it was and why he deserves a ride in a nice carriage.
More marching bands. A group of fanciful witches practicing close order drill with their brooms. Floats. Police cars. Fire Engines.
Oh, and the Budweiser Brewery’s Clydesdale Horses pulling a beer wagon. And Boston’s famous amphibious “Duck Boats”, decorated heavily enough to make me fear it would capsize should it decide to take the harbor route home.
But soon the parade was over and the crowds found their way back home, completely packing the MBTA stations, so we walked.
Yes, the walk back to the Intercontinental was much longer than we expected. Much much longer.
It was only after darkness fell that we felt like getting back on our feet again. After discovering that it was St. Patrick’s Day, we had decided that there was one more experience we had to have.
Pub Time
We sought out an Irish Pub.
In our case, we found Mr. Dooley’s on Broad Street. And yes it was packed.
And full of energy.
Mr. Dooley’s is the quintessential Irish pub that captures the heart and soul of Dublin right in the middle of Boston. Stepping inside, you’re greeted with a warm, inviting atmosphere that’s reminiscent of the old country. The dark wood furnishings, traditional Irish decor, and the sound of lively chatter immediately make us feel at home. The walls are adorned with vintage photographs, Gaelic signs, and memorabilia that tell stories of Ireland’s rich heritage.
The bar itself is a focal point, serving a wide array of Irish whiskeys and draught beers, including the obligatory pint of Guinness poured to perfection.
On any given night, you’ll find patrons engaging in friendly conversation, sharing stories, and perhaps even singing along to a live band playing traditional Irish music. But this was St. Patrick’s day in Boston, so we all sang Irish folk songs.
We joined in, singing The Wild Rover for our first time. “And it’s no, nay never”, stomping the floor bang bang bang bang bang “No, Nay never, no more. And I’ll he the wild rover, no never, no more.”
I’ve aways been a non-drinker, but my wife ordered a Guiness, of course.
Even on normal weekends, the energy in Mr. Dooley’s is contagious, and the sense of community is palpable. Mr. Dooley’s is not just a place to grab a drink; it’s a place to experience the warmth and camaraderie that define the Irish spirit.
We didn’t stay too late, we had to much more to experience in Boston.
A Bit More
The next morning, we found ourselves at Faneuil Hall, where the bustling marketplace was transformed into a sea of green. Stalls were still adorned with Irish flags and decorations, and vendors offered everything from traditional Irish fare to festive souvenirs. The hall’s storied history as a meeting place for revolutionary leaders seemed to lend an extra layer of significance to the day’s celebrations.
Researching later, I found that there were indeed Irish heroes of the American Revolution. In particular, Henry Knox was born in Boston to Irish immigrants. He masterminded the transportation of 60 tons of cannon from Fort Ticonderoga to Boston, helping to drive the British from Boston.
Almost certainly he walked the same streets as we did during our visit.
A short walk brought us to Quincy Market, where the crowds were even more animated. The scent of corned beef and cabbage wafted through the air, mingling with the sweet aroma of freshly baked Irish soda bread. People of all ages and backgrounds mingled, their shared joy creating a sense of unity and camaraderie. The market’s blend of historic charm and modern vibrancy made it a perfect backdrop for the St. Patrick’s Day festivities.
On our walk to Boston Common, we made a small detour to the Irish Famine Memorial. Two statues, two sets of figures, one depicting the horrors of the famine that killed about a million people, about 12% of the population of Ireland. Another million emigrated, in large part arriving in the US. The second statue depicts those who gave up their lives in Ireland for a chance in the New World.
Of course we visited Boston Common, explored the North End, and had dinner in Chinatown, but that’s a different story to tell.
| For more information southbostonparade.org www.meetboston.com www.mrdooleys.com |
Paul not only writes many of the articles in the pages of this magazine, he is also the publisher and editor of all of the magazines in the Amygis Publishing’s family of travel magazines. He loves exploring, traveling the back roads, experiencing the world, and finding what is unique and memorable about the places he visits.
And he loves writing – poetry, short stories, essays, non-fiction, news, and. of course, travel writing.
For over 20 years, he has shared his explorations with readers in a wide variety of outlets, from groundbreaking forays into the first stirrings of the dot-com boom to travel guides, local newspapers, and television, including Runner’s World, Travel Lady, Providence Journal, and Northstar Travel Media. He currently publishes and writes for Amygis Publishing’s magazines Jaunting, Northeast Traveler, and Rhode Island Roads.
