Exploring Historic Deerfield

Our anniversary trip to Deerfield, Massachusetts was perhaps the most restful weekend getaway we’ve ever had.

We were guests of the 140-year-old Deerfield Inn, a classic country inn right in the middle of a mile-long string of historic museum houses. We enjoyed a gourmet dinner in the Inn’s restaurant before heading up to our peaceful room, then awoke in the morning for breakfast and a day of soaking in the history of the best-documented colonial village in the US.

When we asked a family member who lives near Deerfield what we would find there, she said, “some old houses.” From her description, we envisioned one of the many former mill villages that we find throughout New England, but instead, we found a nicely maintained main street dating from the colonial era.

“Some old houses” turned out to be buildings of character and history, each focusing on a different aspect of life in the village.

Even without going into the museum houses, you can enjoy 350 years of history and rural architecture simply by strolling. The stroll takes you past dozens of restored historic homes. Continuing a stroll down the Channing Blake Meadow Walk, past a working farm, you stand on the banks of the Deerfield River, then stroll back by way of the campus of the renowned Deerfield Academy and the Old Burial Ground.

But as nice as a quiet stroll is, stop by the old tavern building that houses the Hall Tavern Visitor Center to watch a video about the village’s history and to get a pass to the museum houses.

 The 1734 Ashley House is typical of the houses built in its era, with a two-story front, a third story tucked under the peak of the roof that slopes all the way down to the first floor in the back.

As we stepped into the Ashley House, we were immediately transported back to the colonial era. The wooden beams and wide-plank floors seemed to whisper stories of the past. My wife and I marveled at the craftsmanship of the period furniture that adorned the rooms. Each piece was a testament to the skill and artistry of the early settlers, reflecting the wealth and status of the house’s original occupants.

Wandering from room to room, we were struck by the attention to detail in the home’s restoration. The Historic Deerfield Association had done a remarkable job preserving the authenticity of the Ashley House.

In the parlor, we admired an intricately carved mantelpiece and the delicate patterns of the wallpaper. The house felt alive with history, and we could almost imagine the town’s minister and his family going about their daily lives in these very rooms.

The tour guide shared fascinating anecdotes about the house’s past residents, bringing the history to life in a way that was both educational and deeply engaging.

The highlight of our tour was the collection of period fine furniture displayed throughout the house. The beautifully crafted pieces, from elegant sideboards to ornate chairs, showcased the opulence and sophistication of Deerfield’s wealthy residents.

At the Bernard Tavern, my wife and I were particularly captivated by the very concept that buildings from so long ago would still be standing. We couldn’t help but feel a profound connection to the past, appreciating the legacy of those who had once called it home.

It was a truly enriching experience, and we left with a deeper appreciation for the history and heritage of Deerfield.

At the far north end of Main Street, next to the meadows that produced corn in abundance, it was originally the home of the town’s minister. Now in the possession of the Historic Deerfield Association, it houses a collection of period fine furniture, typical of the wealthy residents of Deerfield.

The Historic Deerfield Association has worked since the 1940s to preserve both the buildings and the history of the village. They’ve opened more than a dozen buildings to tours, building unique collections in each.

The 1700s Sheldon House and the 1800s Federal brick Stebbins house have self-directed tours through their collections, while most of the homes have directed group walkthroughs.

A few of the Association’s collections, like the Henry Needham Flynt Silver and Metalware Collection, which features silver from the colonial era to the present day, are open only on request.

During our visit, we also explored the Flynt Center of Early New England Life, which houses an impressive array of galleries and collections that showcase the daily life and craftsmanship of early New England settlers. The center features the Henry Needham Flynt Silver and Metalware Collection, a standout exhibit that includes a remarkable assortment of colonial-era silver and pewter pieces. The silversmith shop within the Flynt Center offers a fascinating glimpse into the artistry and skill of colonial silversmiths, connecting the craftsmanship of Deerfield’s past.

Accommodations and Local Cuisine

Not all of the museums are managed by the Historic Deerfield Association. The Indian Memorial House, a recreation of the sturdy house that withstood an attack during the French-Indian War, houses the Deerfield Children’s Museum. It’s managed by the same folks who run the nineteen-room Memorial Hall Museum.

Even without a taste for history, the Deerfield Inn provides a great destination for a romantic getaway. It’s cozy, quiet and friendly; comfortable enough for well-heeled parents of the Deerfield Academy kids. Our anniversary dinner at the Inn’s restaurant, Champney’s, was a joy. The food was delicious and filling, the service was top-notch, and the atmosphere was white-tablecloth-fine-wine elegant.

I had filet mignon with Gorgonzola while Linda had scallops. Linda recently discovered a sensitivity to gluten, found in wheat products, and the chef created a special version of the foods just for her.

One very pleasant surprise was discovering that Champney’s has Indian pudding on the dessert menu – Linda adores the hard-to-find traditional dish that you’d never expect to find in an upscale restaurant.

Our room was very nice. It was furnished with antiques and plenty of reminders of the history of the Inn and the village.

The inn was originally built in 1884 to serve the travelers who went up and down the Pioneer Valley between Vermont and Long Island Sound. Over time, it expanded to include 23 guest rooms. The Inn’s common areas are welcoming, with fireplaces and comfortable couches, both in the lobby and in an adjoining salon. The salon opens up into the tavern, a place comfortable for an after-dinner drink or just hanging out with friends. The tavern brags about 101 martinis and more than 20 wines by the glass.

The innkeepers have filled the Inn with comforting touches and amenities. A filling breakfast, a public-access computer, video checkouts, afternoon tea, and passes to the Historic Deerfield Association’s museums are just a tiny portion of what they have done to help make the Inn feel like a home.

Nearby

On our visit, we also toured the nearby communities, taking in barbeque brisket and fixin’s at Bub’s BBQ in Sunderland that tasted like it was imported from the Texas Hill Country.

eing right around the corner, of course, we went shopping at the Yankee Candle Factory.

Stepping into the factory, we were enveloped by the warm, comforting scents of vanilla, cinnamon, and apple pie. The vast array of candles, from rustic jars to elegant tapers, was mesmerizing. We wandered through the factory store, admiring the beautifully crafted candles and the nostalgic holiday displays that brought the spirit of each season to life.

We didn’t have time to go in search of dinosaur footprints or to find the live music venues recommended by the Inn’s staff – after all, this was a relaxing weekend, there was no need to cram every possible experience into two days. However, for future visits, The O’s Music Bar in Sunderland is a must-visit. This cozy venue offers a laid-back atmosphere and regularly features local talent, making it a perfect spot to unwind with good music.

They also highly recommended the Hawks and Reed Performing Arts Center in Greenfield, Tree House Brewing Company in South Deerfield, and The Rendezvous in Turners Falls. Each of these venues offers a unique atmosphere and a variety of live performances that are sure to entertain.

Those dinosaur footprints? Well, they are a fascinating glimpse into the prehistoric past. Located at the Dinosaur Footprints Reservation in Holyoke, these tracks are preserved in the rock formations along the banks of the Connecticut River.

The footprints, left by dinosaurs over 200 million years ago, offer a unique opportunity to walk in the literal footsteps of these ancient creatures. The site features numerous tracks, some belonging to large three-toed theropods and others to smaller herbivorous dinosaurs.

But we wanted to focus on a quiet weekend, strolling the streets, and popping into a historic house museum now and then.

The museums were too numerous for us to visit them all, but we weren’t worried, they’ll still be there when we come back.

If you’re looking for a quiet weekend, book a room at the Deerfield Inn and slow down a little.

For more information www.historic-deerfield.org www.deerfieldinn.com www.champneysrestaurant.com www.bubsbbq.com www.yankeecandle.com/south-deerfield-village.html