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Ithaca is Gorges

Traversing the gorge above Buttermilk Falls, we found ourselves immersed in a realm of natural wonder and awe-inspiring beauty. Layers of ancient rock, weathered by millennia of rushing water, towered above us, forming towering cliffs and rugged outcroppings. Each step forward revealed a new vista, a new perspective on the breathtaking landscape unfolding before us.

Water-sculpted pillars and deep pools carved by the relentless force of rushing torrents, was evidence of the power and persistence of nature’s handiwork. The channel worn into the bedrock lead us further into the heart of the gorge’s labyrinthine embrace.


The sound of the splashing current filled the air, echoed off the walls of the gorge while cool, moist air enveloped us, carrying with it the scent of damp earth and fresh vegetation, a sensory symphony that heightened our senses and heightened our appreciation for the natural world surrounding us.


Finally, after what seemed like an eternity of exploration and discovery, we found ourselves standing at the precipice, gazing down upon the magnificent spectacle of Buttermilk Falls. The water splashing down a thousand tiny increments rather than a single cascade, splashed and frothed on the washboard surface, churning, turning from crystal clear to a milky-white forth as it fell 165 feet to the pool below.


With a sense of exhilaration and anticipation, we began the long descent down to the base of the falls, our footsteps echoing against the rock walls as we made our way closer to the pool at the foot of the falls.


At the bottom, back in realm of man, we looked up at the towering display. We couldn’t help but marvel at the journey we had undertaken, the challenges we had overcome, and the sheer beauty of the natural world that surrounded us.


No, it wasn’t hiking the Grand Canyon or scaling some snowcapped mountain. The hike was well under a mile along paths built decades ago by nature lovers. But it was exerting enough that, as we stood at the base of Buttermilk Falls contemplating the hike back up to the car, a moment of hesitation crept over us. The hike took more than half an hour and was fairly strenuous despite being downhill most of the way, in large part due to naively leaving the gorge path in hope of a “shortcut”.


Our car was just a half mile away. But it was uphill. Way way way up hill. As we rested and contemplated the hike back to the car, we witnessed another, younger couple opting to call an Uber rather than tackle the ascent on foot. Taking their cue, we decided to conserve our energy for further exploration of Ithaca and promptly summoned an Uber ourselves.


Returning to our car parked at the top of the gorge, we eagerly set out for our next adventure: a scenic drive to Taughannock Gorge. Our journey took us through a delightful mix of city streets and picturesque countryside, offering a glimpse into the diverse tapestry of experiences awaiting us in Ithaca. Along the route, we couldn’t help but notice the influence of Ithaca’s eclectic mix of architectural styles and cultural landmarks. From colonial-era homes to contemporary structures, each building told a story of the city’s evolution over time. We were struck by the juxtaposition of modern amenities and timeless traditions that define life in Ithaca.


Passing through the city streets, we observed the vibrant energy of downtown, where bustling cafes and shops coexist with historic buildings steeped in tradition. Beyond the urban core, the scenery transformed into picturesque countryside, with rolling hills and verdant valleys stretching as far as the eye could see.


The drive also afforded us glimpses of Ithaca’s rich agricultural heritage, with vineyards and orchards lining the countryside, their bounty contributing to the local culinary scene, even a herd of buffalo!
Quaint farm stands dotted the roadside, offering fresh produce and homemade goods, while high-tech startups and research facilities signaled the city’s innovative spirit.


And glittering in the distance, the majestic presence of Lake Cayuga reminded us of the region’s natural wonders, adding to the allure of our surroundings.


Ithaca defies easy categorization, blending elements of cosmopolitan sophistication with rich historical heritage, rural countryside charm with vibrant urban energy, and modern amenities with timeless traditions. Nature and culture and entertainment and dining and shopping and relaxation. Every turn through the streets reminded us that Ithaca wasn’t a carefully crafted tapestry or a harmonious blend, it was a wild, bold collage. The beautiful gorges and waterfalls in proximity to historical landmarks and art galleries and restaurants offered us much more to experience than we had any chance to squeeze into our brief visit.


We found Taughannock Falls, a majestic natural wonder nestled within Taughannock Falls State Park, a vivid display of the awe-inspiring power of nature. Plunging a staggering 215 feet, higher than Niagara Falls, Taughannock Falls is one of the tallest waterfalls east of the Mississippi River, captivating visitors with its sheer height and breathtaking beauty.


The water, on its way to join the pristine waters of Cayuga Lake, tumbled over the edge with a force that seemed to defy gravity, sending mist and spray into the air and painting rainbows in the sunlight that filtered through the canopy above. The force of the waters since the end of the last ice age had not only carved a 1.5-mile gorge, it had scooped out a magnificent circular amphitheater for it to show off in.


It was a sight to behold, a symphony of sight and sound that stirred the soul and ignited the imagination.
Stairs dared those with energy left to spare to climb down to witness the cascade up close. For many, a leisurely and fairly level hike from the shores of Cayuga Lake up to the base of the falls offer a less challenging way to get a experience this natural marvel. The trail, meandering through the water-carved stone walls provide a serene setting for contemplation and reflection. Alas, the hike along Buttermilk Falls had been enough for us and we just enjoyed the amazing view from above.


Ithaca is a city renowned for its stunning natural landscapes and breathtaking gorges. Aptly nicknamed “Ithaca is Gorges,” a playful pun on the word “gorgeous,” the city’s marketing motto captures the essence of its unparalleled beauty and scenic wonders.


With its myriad gorges, cascading waterfalls, and lush greenery, Ithaca offers a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers alike. Visitors from far and wide flock to the city to immerse themselves in the splendor of its natural attractions, spending hours—or even days—exploring the countless trails, viewpoints, and scenic overlooks that dot the landscape.


The gorges stand as the quintessential attr action for visitors seeking to connect with nature’s majesty.
Among the most iconic is the 115-foot-high Ithaca Falls, a majestic curtain of water located on Fall Creek. Its thunderous roar echoes through the surrounding valleys, offering a dramatic backdrop for contemplation and exploration. Nearby, Triphammer Falls, with its picturesque 55-foot drop, provides a serene oasis near Cornell University’s campus, inviting visitors to pause and soak in the tranquility of its surroundings.


But the allure of Ithaca’s gorges extends beyond mere aesthetics. These natural wonders serve as havens for biodiversity, harboring a rich array of flora and fauna within their lush embrace. Ferns, mosses, and wildflowers carpet the canyon walls, while birdsongs mingle with the rush of water to create a symphony of sound.


For intrepid explorers, the gorges offer a network of well-maintained hiking trails, meandering through dense forests and rocky outcrops. Robert H. Treman State Park, encompassing Enfield Glen with its 12 waterfalls, including the awe-inspiring Lucifer Falls, provides ample opportunities for discovery.


For many visitors, the gorges of Ithaca serve as the main attraction, drawing them in with their unparalleled beauty and natural grandeur. It’s not uncommon for travelers to spend their entire visit just exploring these beautiful works of nature, hiking along scenic trails, picnicking by cascading waterfalls, and marveling at the sheer magnitude of the landscape that surrounds them.


We had arrived in Ithaca the evening before as part of our road trip through New York state. When we arrived at our home base for the night we had spotted and had high recommendations from folks to visit Ithaca Commons, just a couple blocks away. Having recovered enough from our hike to handle a bit of downtown exploration, we soon found ourselves exploring Ithaca Commons.


This outdoor pedestrian mall in downtown Ithaca captivated us with its bustling energy, eclectic charm, and lively atmosphere, offering a delightful mix of shops, restaurants, cafes, and entertainment options to explore. We discovered a world of eclectic shops, educational treasures, and vibrant energy. As we wandered through the paved streets of this bustling walking mall, flanked by shops on either side, we found ourselves drawn to the unique and unusual goods that lined the storefronts.


The array of shops lining the mall was diverse, offering everything from boutique clothing and artisanal crafts to and specialty goods. We spent the rest of the afternoon perusing the shelves, marveling at the wide selection of items that sparked our curiosity and imagination. Gifts, used books, art…


Among our favorite finds was a shop that specialized in educational toys, where we discovered a treasure trove of games, puzzles, and activities that promised hours of learning and exploration for our youngest family member. From science kits and engineering sets to art supplies and interactive books, each item seemed to hold the promise of discovery and wonder.


We also spent considerable time exploring shops that had unusual gifts, some specific to Ithaca, some unique to the owners’ tastes, and some tapping into what would be called anywhere else “counter culture”. Artsy, off the wall, and at times unusual things that we ultimately decided wouldn’t really fit into our own lives, but gave us joy in seeing nonetheless.


Despite the absence of grassy lawns and picnic spots, the atmosphere was vibrant and lively, with the sounds of laughter and conversation filling the air as shoppers browsed and explored. The occasional rustle of leaves from the few trees scattered throughout the mall added a touch of natural beauty to the urban landscape.


While we didn’t dine at any of the several eateries lining the Commons, we couldn’t help but be tempted by the tantalizing aromas wafting from the outdoor patios and sidewalk cafes. From gourmet sandwiches and salads to artisanal ice cream and baked goods, there was no shortage of culinary delights to tantalize our taste buds.


As evening approached, we reluctantly tore ourselves away from the shops of Ithaca Commons, laden with bags filled with treasures and memories of a day well spent. It was a unique and unforgettable shopping experience that left us eager to return and explore even more of what this vibrant downtown destination had to offer.


While we had no more time to explore downtown, we couldn’t help but reminisce about the unique shopping experiences we had encountered earlier at Ithaca Commons. From browsing the shelves of Buffalo Street Books for literary gems to perusing the handcrafted jewelry at Sunny Days of Ithaca, there were countless shops and boutiques waiting to be discovered there and beyond. The allure of exploring the quirky finds at Alphabet Soup and the artistic creations at Handwork Cooperative Art & Craft Gallery left us yearning for another opportunity to wander the streets of downtown Ithaca and uncover even more hidden treasures.


Alas, after our enriching and tiring day of exploration, we retreated to our home base, Hotel Ithaca, where we enjoyed a delightful dinner and very comfortable, upscale room.


Located in the heart of downtown Ithaca, Hotel Ithaca, a part of the Hart Group, stands as a beacon of comfort and convenience for travelers like us exploring the Finger Lakes region. With its recent renovations and expansions, including two towers of guest rooms and an expanded restaurant, the hotel offers modern luxury right downtown. Boasting 170 generously proportioned guest rooms and suites, many with balconies offering panoramic views of the city, Hotel Ithaca provides a tranquil retreat for us after our day of exploring the nearby attractions.


Hotel Ithaca provides an array of amenities to enhance the guest experience. From the inviting indoor swimming pool and fully-equipped fitness center to the spacious meeting facilities comprising 6,000 square feet of flexible space, the hotel caters to the needs of both leisure and business travelers alike. The dedicated on-site event coordinator ensures seamless execution of events, while the complimentary shuttle service to Tompkins Regional Airport, Cornell University, and Ithaca College adds convenience for guests.


Within the hotel, the Ithaca Social Pub & Grille gave us a delectable dining experience at both breakfast and dinner in a welcoming atmosphere. With its diverse menu and attentive service, Ithaca Social Pub & Grille provided a delightful culinary journey that complements the overall hospitality of Hotel Ithaca.


As part of the Hart Group, the hotel restaurant followed the excellent menu that we had experienced in the Harbor Hotels earlier in our trip. Amazingly prepared, beautifully plated dishes were offered, many of which we had thrilled to in the previous stops.


We had had amazing seafood and steaks – a pork chop worth writing into our memoirs, so this time we chose a crock of French onion soup followed by, for me, herb grilled chicken over asparagus topped with artichoke, mushroom, and caper madeira pan sauce. My wife thrilled to her Caribbean salmon topped with mango pineapple salsa.


As we retired to our room at Hotel Ithaca, we were greeted by the cozy comfort of our accommodations, complete with a balcony offering sweeping views of the town below. With the day drawing to a close, we took the opportunity to plan our adventures for the following day, considering the myriad of experiences that Ithaca had to offer.


Among the options we contemplated was a visit to the iconic Cornell University, where we could explore the historic campus, stroll through the botanical gardens, and immerse ourselves in the vibrant academic atmosphere. Alternatively, we could have embarked on a leisurely hike along one of the many scenic trails in the area, such as the Cayuga Waterfront Trail or the Black Diamond Trail, each offering its own unique perspective on the natural beauty of the Finger Lakes region.


Or we could venture further afield to explore nearby attractions such as the Cayuga Lake Wine Trail, where we could sample award-winning wines and soak in the picturesque vineyard landscapes.
Ultimately, we settled on the allure of Cornell University, eager to delve into its rich history and storied traditions before bidding farewell to Ithaca and embarking on our journey back home.


The next morning, after breakfast, we embarked on our drive around Cornell University, we were immediately struck by the grandeur and majesty of the campus architecture. Towering buildings, adorned with intricate facades and majestic spires, loomed overhead, casting a sense of awe and reverence over the landscape.


Each structure told a story of a proud history of academic excellence and intellectual pursuit, evoking a sense of nostalgia and wonder as we imagined what it would have been like to attend this prestigious institution in our younger years. From the iconic clock tower of McGraw Tower to the stately columns of Sage Hall, each building exuded an aura of scholarly sophistication and scholarly tradition, serving as a testament to Cornell’s rich heritage and esteemed reputation.


As we continued our drive around the campus, we couldn’t help but feel a sense of admiration for the legacy of excellence that Cornell University represented. It was a place where dreams were realized, ideas were nurtured, and futures were shaped, and we felt privileged to have the opportunity to witness its beauty and brilliance firsthand.


Alas, we knew that our time in this enchanting city had come to an end. With heavy hearts and memories to cherish, we bid adieu to our cozy accommodations and embarked on the journey back to Rhode Island.
Albeit only two days, our journey through Ithaca was nothing short of unforgettable. From the awe-inspiring beauty of the gorges to the vibrant energy of downtown and the storied halls of Cornell University, every moment was filled with wonder, adventure, and discovery.


To anyone considering a visit to Ithaca, we wholeheartedly encourage you to experience it for yourselves. Whether you’re drawn to the natural splendor of the gorges, the eclectic charm of downtown, or the academic excellence of Cornell University, there’s something for everyone to discover and enjoy in this vibrant city.


So pack your bags, hit the road, and prepare to be captivated by the beauty, charm, and warmth of Ithaca. Whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, or simply a chance to connect with nature and explore new horizons, Ithaca offers an experience like no other. Trust us—you won’t be disappointed. Come and discover why Ithaca truly is “gorges” in every sense of the word.

For more information
• Visit Ithaca: visitithaca.com
• Cornell University: cornell.edu
• Hotel Ithaca www.thehotelithaca.com
• Taughannock Falls State Park: parks.ny.gov/parks/taughannockfalls
• Buttermilk Falls State Park: parks.ny.gov/parks/buttermilkfalls/details.aspx
• Downtown Ithaca Alliance: downtownithaca.com

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Paul not only writes many of the articles in the pages of this magazine, he is also the publisher and editor of all of the magazines in the Amygis Publishing’s family of travel magazines. He loves exploring, traveling the back roads, experiencing the world, and finding what is unique and memorable about the places he visits.

And he loves writing – poetry, short stories, essays, non-fiction, news, and. of course, travel writing.
For over 20 years, he has shared his explorations with readers in a wide variety of outlets, from groundbreaking forays into the first stirrings of the dot-com boom to travel guides, local newspapers, and television, including Runner’s World, Travel Lady, Providence Journal, and Northstar Travel Media. He currently publishes and writes for Amygis Publishing’s magazines Jaunting, Northeast Traveler, and Rhode Island Roads.