I’d never explored upstate New York before, so every mile we drove west from Albany and then north from Syracuse gave me new scenery and new experiences. As we made occasional stops and paused to admire the scenery, dusk began to cast its tranquil spell, and when we reached the northern edge of New York along the majestic St. Lawrence River, darkness had taken over providing only a hint of the charming town of Clayton.
Known for its picturesque beauty and nestled along the riverbanks, we knew that Clayton promised a blend of history, natural allure, and warm hospitality. The anticipation of exploring this corner of the Thousand Islands Region heightened as we prepared to immerse ourselves in the delights that Clayton and its surroundings had to offer.
Our accommodation for this leg of the journey was the exquisite Thousand Islands Harbor Hotel. A distinguished four-diamond hotel, it graced the edge of the town’s quaint and classic main street. The hotel was perfectly situated to experience the town’s charm, setting the stage for an exploration that made our stay an unforgettable off-season experience in Clayton.
We love off-season travel. Not just because of the quieter atmosphere, but because in the off season, without the tourists, the true nature of our destination is on display.
Off-season travel bestowed the gift of tranquility as on our visit to Clayton. While the town’s renowned Antique Boat Museum and some tourist attractions took their seasonal hiatus, the hushed ambiance lent a unique charm to the streets. The usual hustle and bustle gave way to a serene atmosphere, allowing us to savor the quietude that enveloped the town.
Our stroll down the Clayton’s main street Riverside Drive the next morning (Clayton is much too small to describe it as an excursion) gave us a glimpse of the town’s off-season character, from the classic Clayton Opera House to the small town Reinman’s Department Store / Ace Hardware store on streets that just encouraged us to slow down and take it easy.
Traditional bakeries enticed us with the aroma of freshly baked treats, while cozy cafes invited us to savor a cup of warm coffee amidst the charming surroundings. In the heart of Clayton, we encountered family-owned establishments like the Koffee Kove and O’Brien’s and that have stood the test of time, providing a glimpse into the town’s rich heritage.
We couldn’t help but notice the unique boutiques showcasing handcrafted goods and artisanal treasures. The shop windows beckoned with displays ranging from local artwork to intricately designed jewelry. Each storefront contributed its own distinct personality to the town’s character.
Our stroll led us to delightful shops, each with its own story to tell. One particular gem captured our attention, enticing us to spend a leisurely hour exploring Christmas decorations and trinkets to serve as cherished mementos of our trip. The absence of crowds meant we could engage in unhurried conversations with the shopkeepers, who eagerly shared insights about their beloved town.
It was during these intimate exchanges that we unearthed hidden gems of local lore, turning our off-season exploration into an enriching and personalized experience. High on the shopkeeper’s list of ideas for exploring the area was Zenda Farms Preserve, a few miles west of downtown.
We planned a two night stay in Clayton to allowed us the opportunity to explore the town, so we spent the afternoon at Zenda Farms Preserve, a captivating former dairy farm that unfolded like a time capsule from the 1960s. Turned over largely to a broad 100-acre expanse of lush grass, the museum retained several meticulously preserved buildings, each adorned with a distinctive metallic finish, reminiscent of a bygone era.
During its zenith, Zenda Farms was a bustling dairy operation, home to hundreds of cows grazing on over 800 acres of sprawling land. A well-marked walking trail winds its way around this pastoral haven, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in the tranquil beauty of the landscape.
Venturing into Zenda Farms during the off-season, and on top of that away from the weekend hustle, afforded us the chance to explore the exterior of the historic structures. From imposing silos to hay storage units, milking stations, and the ominously-named “manure pit,” each element told a silent tale of the farm’s busy past. The creamery building, now repurposed as the visitor center, stood as a testament to the agricultural legacy that once thrived within these grounds.
Despite being unable to explore the interiors during our visit, the exterior tour painted a vivid picture of the farm’s rich heritage, leaving us with a deeper appreciation for the resilience of Zenda Farms across the changing seasons of time.
In the quiet off-season, the sounds of nature became more pronounced, offering a serene backdrop to our leisurely walks along the walking trail. While Zenda Farms may not always reveal its full array of wildlife during every visit, the potential for enchanting encounters with the local fauna adds an element of anticipation and discovery to the overall experience.
Although we may not have been equipped with binoculars and a bird guide, the spontaneous serenade from the resident birds hinted at the rich biodiversity that thrives within the preserve’s boundaries.
The elusive foxes and other creatures that call this serene expanse their home managed to stay well back into the trees and deep grass, evading our hope of spotting them ourselves.
Before dinner, we had a chance to enjoy the St Lawrence River, from the comfort of the banks. The coldest part of winter hadn’t set in yet, so we could enjoy the view from the riverwalk that runs from St. Lawrence Restoration, a business devoted to restoring vintage boats. behind the Thousand Islands Harbor Hotel, and on a short distance to Frink Park.
Frink Park’s primary structure reminded us of a railroad station waiting area. Digging a little into the history of the town, I found that the railroad used to bring visitors to Clayton back in the era of Grand Hotels, with Clayton being the primary access to the 1000 Islands resorts in the St. Lawrence. The railroad did a loop around the small town, along the path of Riverside Drive and the river walk, servicing the tourists and supplying ships that plied the St. Lawrence.
After the railroad station, the old Frink Snow Plow company used to be where Frink Park and the 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel now stand.
Some of the story of Frink Park could be gleaned by reading the informational panels set up in the park. It could have been easily discovered with a visit to the Thousand Islands Museum. I had it even easier by having long rambling chats with proud residents of Clayton who were thrilled to share the history of their town.
In Frink Park, a statue of a muskie, a large game fish native to the waters of the St. Lawrence, stands to remind visitors that nature and wildlife continues below the surface of the water too.
The St. Lawrence River, not merely a picturesque scene, operates as a vital artery for maritime trade. It stands as a major shipping channel, facilitating the movement of goods and vessels. During the winter months, a transformative scene unfolds as the river freezes over, transforming into a pathway traversed by ice fishermen and, on occasion, daring border-crossing moose, in what must be an ethereal landscape.
The river’s numerous islands, some residing in Canadian waters, others in U.S. waters gave birth to the term “Thousand Islands,” a name that not only describes the physical landscape but also became synonymous with the distinctive salad dressing created in this very region.
Alas, the I-81 bridge over the St. Lawrence just a few miles east made travel to the Islands and Canada a simple process, ending the days when water taxis and ferries used Clayton as their primary terminus.
While our exploration in Clayton offered a myriad of captivating experiences, the broader region beckoned with additional attractions that, unfortunately, we didn’t have the opportunity to witness firsthand. Downstream, toward the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean, lies Heart Island, home to the enchanting Boldt Castle—a testament to the opulence of the Gilded Age. Although we missed the chance to wander through its halls and gardens, the allure of this unfinished mansion stood as a reminder of the area’s rich historical tapestry.
Heading in the opposite direction, the town of Cape Vincent unfolds, nestled along the St. Lawrence River. Here, the Tibbits Point Lighthouse stands sentinel, gazing out over the river’s expanse. A visit to this iconic landmark promises not only panoramic views of the river but also the chance to stand on the edge of Lake Ontario. From this vantage point, one can witness the vastness of fresh water extending all the way to the horizon—a sight that, regrettably, eluded our own exploration.
These unexplored gems serve as an invitation for future adventures, enticing us to return and immerse ourselves in the tales of Boldt Castle, the charm of Cape Vincent, and the mesmerizing vistas offered by Tibbits Point Lighthouse.
The St. Lawrence River and its surroundings, it seems, have an abundance of stories yet to unfold, waiting to be discovered on our next journey to this captivating corner of the world.
Our refuge during our stay, the Thousand Islands Harbor Hotel, proved to be a sanctuary of comfort and tranquility that beckoned us to its embrace. The allure of the hotel extended beyond the mere practicalities of accommodation; it became a pivotal part of our experience, a haven overlooking the picturesque St. Lawrence River.
Our very comfortable room, offered a panoramic view of the river that became a constant companion during this leg of our road trip. The Thousand Islands Harbor Hotel not only rejuvenated what was once industrial land but also elevated it into a hub for various events and gatherings. The hotel’s meeting spaces cater to the diverse needs of the area, hosting weddings and business conferences that benefit from the scenic backdrop of the St. Lawrence River.
Beyond its role as a comfortable retreat, the Thousand Islands Harbor Hotel is a dynamic venue for community engagement. Annual events such as the speedboat poker rally and the Fire and Ice in February add vibrancy to the hotel’s calendar, creating an atmosphere that resonates with both local residents and visitors alike. As we reveled in the quiet elegance of our riverside haven, we couldn’t help but appreciate the hotel’s multifaceted role in fostering both comfort and community spirit in this enchanting corner of Clayton.
Dining at the Seaway Grille within the Thousand Islands Harbor Hotel was a culinary experience that added a delectable layer to our stay. We savored the delights of both breakfast and dinner in the welcoming ambiance of the hotel’s restaurant.
One standout dish that etched itself into our memory was the super-thick frenched pork chop, elevated to excellence with a touch of spicy butter. Served alongside creamy mashed potatoes and crisp green beans. The flavors and textures left a lasting impression. While the entire menu showcased culinary craftsmanship, from the succulent salmon to the perfectly cooked filet, the pork chop emerged as a highlight, its savory perfection creating a memorable dining experience.
For breakfast, the Seaway Grille continued to impress with a delicious spread. Among the tempting options, the pancakes stood out as a personal favorite, a delightful start to the day that showcased the kitchen’s commitment to delivering not just a meal but a culinary delight.
Oh, yes, we just had to taste the green salad with the local creation – the Thousand Island salad dressing. Yum!
The kitchen and waitstaff provided a memorable dining experience, making our meals at the hotel an integral part of our overall enjoyment during our stay in Clayton.
Alas, the fleeting nature of our stay in Clayton meant that we could only enjoy two days of tranquility. Two days, a mere pause in our journey, were spent reveling in the tranquility of the Thousand Islands Harbor Hotel, exploring Zenda Farms Preserve, and savoring the culinary delights of the Seaway Grille.
The thought of immersing ourselves in the peace and quiet of Clayton for a more extended period lingered in our minds. We are sure that the folks in the age of Grand Hotels enjoyed Clayton for the same reasons – quiet, peace, nature, vistas, and the luxury of fine food and amazingly comfortable accommodations.
However, the open road called us once more, and with a tinge of reluctance, we bid farewell to this tranquil haven.
For more information:
• visit1000islands.com/communities/clayton-ny/
• www.timuseum.org
www.1000islandsharborhotel.com
Paul not only writes many of the articles in the pages of this magazine, he is also the publisher and editor of all of the magazines in the Amygis Publishing’s family of travel magazines. He loves exploring, traveling the back roads, experiencing the world, and finding what is unique and memorable about the places he visits.
And he loves writing – poetry, short stories, essays, non-fiction, news, and. of course, travel writing.
For over 20 years, he has shared his explorations with readers in a wide variety of outlets, from groundbreaking forays into the first stirrings of the dot-com boom to travel guides, local newspapers, and television, including Runner’s World, Travel Lady, Providence Journal, and Northstar Travel Media. He currently publishes and writes for Amygis Publishing’s magazines Jaunting, Northeast Traveler, and Rhode Island Roads.
