On The Shores Of
CHAUTAUQUA LAKE

In the embrace of winter’s gentle chill, my wife and I journied through the countryside of Upstate New York, reaching the region surrounding Chautauqua Lake. We were captivated by the silent eloquence of well-kept barns that dotted the landscape, each reflecting the enduring commitment of local farms to their livestock—a testament to the agricultural heartbeat of the region.

Journey Through Upstate Tranquility

As we drove from our previous stopover at Niagara Falls, vineyards unfolded before us, their sprawling dimensions suggesting industrial horticulture at an industrial scale. This visual symphony served as a powerful testament to the region’s fervent embrace of viticulture—a seamless marriage of tradition and innovation that beckoned us to explore its depths.

Reaching Jamestown, we meandered through the historical street steeped in stories of yesteryears, our path finally leading us to the picturesque village of Celoron, nestled against the shores of Chautauqua Lake. Here, our haven awaited—the Chautauqua Harbor Hotel, a jewel in the crown of the esteemed Hart Hotels group. This four-diamond establishment, reminiscent of the Thousand Islands Harbor Hotel, radiated familiarity but on a grander scale.

Perched just beyond the fringes of bustling Jamestown, the Chautauqua Harbor Hotel occupied a space that once echoed with the laughter of amusement park-goers from a bygone era. Now, many decades later and in the hushed stillness of winter, the hotel embraced us in its tranquil embrace. Despite the calm, an undercurrent of activity whispered of a place that, even in repose, retained a vibrant pulse—a promise of diverse experiences awaiting us in this lakeside haven.

Celoron’s Nostalgic Echoes and Lucille Ball’s Legacy

Venturing beyond the comfort of the Chautauqua Harbor Hotel, Celoron is part of a captivating chapter in the region’s narrative. In the days of railroad travel, New York state’s Finger Lakes were the playground of the Northeast, providing respite from the heat.  Though not normally considered a finger lake because it runs east and west, Chautauqua Lake fulfilled the same function.  Jamestown was known for its furniture manufacturing in the days of steam engines, but it and the much smaller Celoron became resort towns since they laid at the eastern tip of Chautauqua Lake.

Celoron Park, a cherished gem in the history of Celoron, stood as a vibrant amusement park on shores of Chautauqua Lake. Founded in the 1890’s, the park quickly became a beloved destination, drawing visitors from near and far with its enchanting attractions and lively entertainment, with its heyday spanning several decades. Throughout its operation, Celoron Park featured an array of entertainment, including thrilling rides, live performances, and charming concessions. The laughter of amusement park-goers, the melodies of carousel music, and the joyous atmosphere created a sense of enchantment that lingered in the memories of those who experienced it.

One of the park’s iconic features was a small circular island, with a central tower that spun, thrilling riders as their small aircraft-shaped carriages swung outward, over the water.  Unfortunately, as the mid-20th century approached, changing economic and recreational landscapes led to the eventual closure of Celoron Park in the early 1960s.

Despite its closure, the park’s memory lives on in the collective nostalgia of those who experienced its magic.  Abandoned, the circular island haven became known as “Monkey Island”  by the locals. With the creation of the Chautauqua Harbor Hotel on the former amusement park grounds, the island became home to the hotel’s “Carousel Bar” in memory of the heritage of the site.

This is where we bring in the famed comedienne Lucille Ball. Stories told by the local residents we spoke with suggest that in her youth, Lucy worked as a ticket-taker at Celoron Park, adding a touch of local flavor to her journey from the small village to Hollywood stardom. It makes sense, since the amusement park would be just about the most logical place a teenager would have found work during the summer, especially considering she was born in Jamestown and lived just a few blocks away on what is now called “Lucy Street.”

The Lucille Ball Memorial Park, adjacent to the hotel and also on former park grounds, now pays tribute to her enduring legacy. Two statues of Lucy, proudly guarding the park, serve as reminders of her roots here and in nearby Jamestown.

Our winter journey, a departure from the vibrant energy of summer, allows us to uncover Celoron’s quieter nuances. The streets, adorned with historical echoes, narrate the tale of a village embracing its past while gently reaching towards the future. In this frozen tableau, Celoron invites us to become part of its story, where each snowflake seems to carry a fragment of its rich history. Despite winter’s hush, Celoron radiates a warmth that transcends the season. The local community, intricately woven into the ebb and flow of lake life, reflects a spirit of resilience and unity. It’s a place where stories echo through generations, seamlessly intertwining the past with the present.

Exploring Jamestown’s Comedy and Cultural Scene

While Lucy ventured into the vast world of entertainment, she maintained a deep connection to Jamestown, a city that not only holds her roots and heart but also stands as a vibrant center of culture, history, and entertainment. Her enduring ties to the city were not merely sentimental; they translated into meaningful contributions, including the establishment of the Lucille Ball Little Theatre. This local venue, nestled in the heart of Jamestown, stands as a testament to her commitment to the arts and culture of her hometown.

Downtown Jamestown proudly houses the Lucy and Desi Museum, a captivating tribute to the life and comedic genius of Lucille Ball. Stepping into this museum is akin to taking a journey through Lucy’s remarkable career. With two exhibit halls and a shop filled with Lucy-themed gifts, it not only showcases her ability to make us laugh but also delves into her role as the owner of Desilu Studios in Hollywood. Lucy’s influence reached far beyond the realm of comedy; it played a pivotal role in the creation of iconic shows like the Untouchables, Star Trek and Mission Impossible, not just comedies like I Love Lucy and the Dick Van Dyke show.  She and Desi Arnez created a legacy that continues to shape the entertainment industry.

By the way, if you want to visit Lucy’s gravesite, you can find it in Forest Lawn Memorial Park.  Follow the little red hearts to pay your respects to this legend of comedy.

Within walking distance of the Lucy and Desi museum, we found the National Comedy Center, housed in the historic former train station.

The center’s location itself is a testament to the city’s commitment to preserving its past while embracing its comedic future. The architectural charm of the building and historical roots of the building invites visitors into a world where laughter takes center stage. Once inside, the center unfolds into a captivating space that fuses innovation with entertainment. Interactive exhibits showcase the evolution of comedy, providing a journey through the rich history of this art form.

One of the center’s unique features is its incorporation of cutting-edge technology, offering visitors an immersive and personalized experience. The George Carlin Archives, a notable highlight, preserves the legacy of one of comedy’s iconic figures. Rare footage of various comedians adds a touch of nostalgia, connecting visitors with the timeless humor that has shaped the industry. A particularly whimsical aspect of the National Comedy Center is the presence of holograms, including one of Desi Arnez. This innovative use of technology not only enhances the overall experience but also adds a playful element to the journey through the world of comedy.

The center’s exhibit halls provide a comprehensive exploration of comedy’s impact on culture and society. From classic stand-up routines to behind-the-scenes glimpses of beloved sitcoms, the National Comedy Center offers a multifaceted perspective on the art form.

The center has many events, like stand-up comedy performances, workshops, panels, film screenings, and temporary exhibits, making it an active part of Jamestown’s culture.

Alas, our exploration of Jamestown was limited by time constraints. Well, indulging in one of the region’s favorite foods, a “beef on wreck”, thin sliced roast beef on a kummelweck roll, with horseradish and au jus.  Yum!  Oh, the kummelweck roll has caraway seeds and crushed salt.  You can find it all over, including the 1964 local favorite “The Pub”, just down the street from the Comedy Center.

The Fenton History Center with its exhibits and artifacts chronicling the region’s past and the Robert H. Jackson Center dedicated to the life and work of Supreme Court Justice Jackson are attractions we regret not having the opportunity to visit. The Roger Tory Peterson Institute of Natural History, focused on ornithology and wildlife art, and the Jamestown Audubon Center and Sanctuary, offering nature walks and birdwatching, further showcase the city’s commitment to natural exploration. Additionally, the Reg Lenna Center for The Arts, hosting a variety of performances, stands as a cultural hub that we hope to explore in the future.

Chautauqua Institution: A Beacon of Intellectual Enrichment

And if we had expanded our exploration beyond Celoron and Jamestown, a captivating array of attractions would have been waiting to welcome us.

Foremost is the a timeless allure of the tranquil waters of Chautauqua Lake itself. Having drawn generations of visitor this expansive lake serves as a serene escape from the demands of city life. In bygone days, when summer’s heat gripped urban dwellers and air conditioning was a distant fantasy, Chautauqua Lake beckoned as a natural haven. Today the lake maintains its role as a retreat, providing a refreshing break and an opportunity to reconnect with nature. Whether indulging in leisurely strolls along the shores, boating under the open sky, or simply relishing the peaceful ambiance, Chautauqua Lake remains a timeless sanctuary, inviting city dwellers to unwind and embrace the enduring beauty that has charmed generations.

It was picturesque shores of Chautauqua Lake that gave home to the Chautauqua Institution. In the days before radio, TV and other mass communication, orators and lecturers had a special place in society.  Lectures would pack auditoriums and people would listen intently for hours about the marvels of science, reflections on the human condition, and news of the world. Nowhere was more revered as a beacon of intellectual and cultural enrichment than the Chautauqua Institution. Established in 1874 as an outgrowth of the Sunday School Movement, the institution initially served as a summer retreat for Methodist Sunday School teachers, offering them a space for professional development and spiritual rejuvenation. Over time, it has evolved into a multifaceted center for lifelong learning, cultural exploration, and community engagement.

At the heart of the Chautauqua experience are the renowned lectures and discussions that have earned the institution its reputation as the Ted Talk of its day. Distinguished speakers from various fields, including politics, science, literature, and the arts, grace the stages, imparting knowledge and sparking insightful conversations. The institution’s commitment to intellectual discourse transcends traditional boundaries, fostering an environment where diverse perspectives converge, and ideas flourish.  Over time, the speakers would tour the country, spreading their insights and knowledge far and wide.

These lectures continue at the present day Chautauqua Institution.  Beyond the lectures, the institute is a thriving cultural hub, embracing the arts in all its forms. The iconic Amphitheater hosts a vibrant array of performances, from orchestral concerts to theatrical productions. The School of Music, School of Dance, and School of Art provide immersive educational experiences, nurturing emerging talents and fostering creativity.  The spiritual dimension of Chautauqua is embodied in the Interfaith Lecture Series, which explores topics of faith, ethics, and social justice. Rooted in the institution’s Methodist heritage, this series embraces a broader spectrum of religious and philosophical perspectives, reflecting the evolving nature of spirituality in contemporary society.

Chautauqua’s lakeside setting enhances the overall experience, providing a serene backdrop for contemplation and relaxation. The pristine surroundings, dotted with historic cottages and tree-lined avenues, create an idyllic atmosphere conducive to introspection and connection with nature.  Visiting it, even without sitting in on one of the lectures, gives a chance to soak in the institute’s beauty and history.

Lake Erie Wine Country Trail: Culinary and Viticultural Delights

In addition to the intellectual and cultural offerings of the Chautauqua Institution, the region also beckons to wine lovers with the renowned Lake Erie Wine Country Trail. Stretching across the picturesque landscapes that surround Chautauqua Lake, this trail winds through vineyards and wineries, inviting visitors to savor the flavors of the region. The area’s unique climate, influenced by the lake’s moderating effects, provides an ideal terroir for grape cultivation, resulting in a diverse array of wines.

In warmer weather, embarking on the wine trail is a journey into the craftsmanship of local vintners, where each winery tells a story through its distinct varietals. From crisp whites to robust reds, the Lake Erie Wine Country Trail showcases the rich viticultural heritage of the region. Tasting rooms offer not only the opportunity to sample exquisite wines but also to engage with passionate winemakers, gaining insights into the art and science of winemaking.

Chautauqua’s position along the wine trail provides a delightful complement to the intellectual and cultural experiences offered by the Chautauqua Institution. Whether leisurely strolling through vineyards, enjoying a tasting with a lakeside view, or learning about the winemaking process, the wine trail adds a sensory dimension to the multifaceted allure of the Chautauqua Lake region. As visitors explore the wealth of cultural, intellectual, and culinary offerings, the wine trail stands as a testament to the region’s commitment to providing a holistic and enriching experience for all who venture into this captivating corner of upstate New York.

If you travel through the area in the winter, fear not, there are plenty of shops selling local wines!

Panama Rocks: Nature’s Geological Masterpiece

You might also take the time to explore the outdoors at Panama Rocks, a geological treasure for nature enthusiasts. This ancient rock formation, dating back to the end of the ice age, creates a mesmerizing labyrinth of towering crevices and towering boulders, offering a captivating adventure for hikers and explorers. The site’s moss-covered rocks and lush foliage provide a picturesque backdrop, making it an ideal destination for those seeking a tranquil escape into nature’s embrace. As visitors traverse the winding trails, they are treated to stunning panoramic views, making Panama Rocks an absolute must-visit for those yearning to immerse themselves in the beauty of the great outdoors.

Chautauqua Harbor Hotel’s Lakeside Culinary Charms

Our journey through the enchanting Chautauqua Lake region was beyond comfortable with the Chautauqua Harbor Hotel providing an upscale sanctuary. This four-diamond retreat, part of the esteemed Hart Hotels group.  It was our home base on the serene shores of Chautauqua Lake.

Our carefully appointed room, comfort and well-appointed sat on the top floor, providing a sweeping panorama of the tranquil Chautauqua Lake, inviting contemplative moments about the bygone era when steamships gracefully traversed its expansive waters.

During the bustling summer season, the restaurant and bar attract visitors from far and wide, including boaters and those beyond the region. The outdoor areas lining the lake, including the Carousel Bar and the circular island affectionately known as “Monkey Island,” evoke nostalgia from the Celoron Park amusement park days.

The Lakehouse Tap and Grille, the hotel’s restaurant featured amazing dishes and delightful culinary experiences. The irresistible seafood scampi over linguini, featuring crab meat, offers a twist on the Rhode Island version with clams. A sumptuous dining experience unfolds with the 22-ounce porterhouse steak, accompanied by delectable potato-stuffed perogies adorned with sour cream, green onions, and bacon bits.  The food was… well… amazing.

Farewell to Upstate’s Captivating Corner

Our sojourn through the Chautauqua Lake region had been a captivating tale of discovery. Alas, we had to bid adieu to this captivating corner of upstate New York where the echoes of laughter, the notes of fine wines, and the wisdom of intellectual discussions had to await our next visit.

For more information:

•             Chautauqua County Visitor’s Bureau – www.tourchautauqua.com

•             Jamestown – www.jamestownny.gov

•             Chautauqua Harbor Hotel – www.thechautauquaharborhotel.com

•             Lucille Ball Little Theatre – www.lbltj.com

•             Lucy and Desi Museum – lucydesi.com

•             National Comedy Center – comedycenter.org

•             Fenton History Center – Fenton History Center

•             Robert H. Jackson Center – www.roberthjackson.org

•             Roger Tory Peterson Institute of Natural History – www.rtpi.org

•             Reg Lenna Center for The Arts – reglenna.com

•             Chautauqua Institution – www.chq.org

•             Lake Erie Wine Country Trail – www.lakeeriewinecountry.org

•             Panama Rocks – www.panamarocks.com